Bearing my time at sandrock install#

There's a lot that has to come off before you can lower the crank with the motor in the car. I know this is the lazy man's way of doing things, but my time is really at issue here while working 2 jobs to put gas in the car. Is it possible to lower the crank w/o removing the engine? It's seems that once you remove the bolts from the flywheel, there should be nothing else in the way. It's been a while since I pulled the pan on my 3800, and I can't remember. That removes all wear, taper, and damage from the crank so the new bearings have a perfect surface to ride on. The correct method is to remove the crank from the engine, then turn/grind/polish all the journals to the next size down. Here's why: You are installing brand new bearings on a worn crankshaft. Now, At the begining I said this was possible, but not recommended. Lubricate the bearing with engine assembly lube and reinstall. Clean the rod cap bearing with acetone and a soft cloth. If not, you will need an oversize bearing (0.001' or 0.002') to correct the clearance back into the proper range.Ĭlean the crank journal with acetone and a soft cloth. If it falls between 0.0003' and 0.0026', then it is good to go. Loosen the rod bolts, remove the cap, and measure the Plastigauge mashed on the surface of the crank. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT.you will smear the Plastigauge and not get a good reading.

Bearing my time at sandrock install#

Lay a stip of Plastigauge on the rod cap bearing and gently install the cap on the rod. Pull the rod down until it is in contact with the crank journal and remove the rubber hose from the bolts. Take your new standard size rod bearings and install them in the cap & rod. Remove the old bearing halves and note the part number on the back (should have 'STD' stamped on it to indicate a standard thickness bearing.)Ĭlean the crank journal with acetone and a soft cloth. Protect the crank journal by slipping rubber hose over the exposed threads of the connecting rod, then use a piece of oak to shove the piston & rod up the bore to get it out of the way. Mark the cap to indicate the direction that faces the front of the motor, then remove the connecting rod cap. There's no way to correct side clearance issues without replacing or reworking the crank & rods.) (Too much side clearance will allow the rods to tip & stroying the new bearings. If the side clearance is Ok on all the rods, then you can replace the bearings. NOTE: You may wish to do all of the rod side clearance measurements first, before you replace any bearings.If one of the rods is out of spec, then you will need to replace the rod or the crank.at which point it has to come out. It must fall within 0.003' min to 0.015' maximum. Use a feeler gauge to check the side clearance on the rod. The procedure is simple, drop the oil pan, rotate the crank by hand to bring the rod down to Bottom Dead Center (BDC). It is possible, but not advisable to replace the bearings in this way. Is there a proceedure I should follow and what is entailed with this that I need to be aware of? It appears once the pan is removed the access to the crank is wide open.

I know it's possible to replace the rod bearings on my '91 olds without removing the engine.